There is a slight texture to the paint, you can see it where the light is hitting the shell in the pic below. I wouldn't exactly say it was orange peel, but it seems like a very fine version of that. This is down to technique I assume? Any tips on how to avoid in future?

When you are finished with one layer, you can clear the nozzle. Flip the can upside down and spray in the air for half a second. (Once you clear the nozzle, you can spray a half-spent can a year later, if you want to.) Between layers, I give half an hour. On a hot and dry days, as little as 10 minutes. If I paint after sundown and the humidity is up, 45 minutes to an hour.

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I love Tojos simplicity method, but I am still interested in Eaglecash's decanting process. Sometimes, there are small tight interiors you need to get into that could be difficult to reach using a can. I am currently working on a project like that. Maybe I am wrong...maybe it would work. Usually, two or three thin coats of Tamiya Surface Primer are all it takes to prepare your models for painting.

While they are not acrylic-based, Tamiya primers are easy to use. In two to three coats, it provides excellent coverage without much hassle.If you are painting a runner body, you will probably discover it is not worth the time as it will get chipped, scratched, etc... Best to get a spare body for display and one for running. (note, this is my personal opinion after seeing how a painted Lunchbox turned out)