Sram MTB Grease Butter, 1 oz

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Sram MTB Grease Butter, 1 oz

Sram MTB Grease Butter, 1 oz

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Price: £9.9
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Finance is subject to application, financial circumstances and borrowing history. Performance Cycling Limited FRN: 720557 trading as Tredz are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. We are a credit broker not a lender – credit is subject to status and affordability and is provided by Mitsubishi HC Capital UK PLC. Terms & Conditions Apply. I would consistently kill bearings on my V1 bronson frame. On my V3 bronson frame I've yet to have anything but silky smoth bearings after 15 months of ownership. My V1 had an issue where I think it was flexing under load, binding the bearings, and destroying them prematurely. Throw 4 used chains in a coffee can with solvent. Shake don't stir. Repeat 1-2 more times until fluid is clean. For hygiene reasons, any intimate garments such as facemasks, underwear and swimsuits can only be returned if the items are faulty. Pro X, I approached Dumonde Tech to do a review of their regular lube based on their claims of longevity and they didn’t hesitate to step up. It was a great review experience (it does what they say and a bottle lasts a loooong time following their application process - which is the same I used for T-9 = one drop/roller at a time). Great stuff, but my favourite thing about it is it led me to their Freehub oil/grease.

Full disclosure and I think it's well documented - I'm not a fan of TriFlow. I was using it in cables, but actually, both Boeshield T-9 (chain lube) and Dumonde Tech freehub oil last longer and are less gross in that application as well. And, I'm curious. Always curious. Since I'm using the Silver Grease in non-King hub bearings, and the Blue Grease in non-King headset and frame bearings, I'm also figuring on experimenting with the RDL-2 in a non-King hub where I normally run Dumonde Tech Freehub Oil on the coil-sprung pawls to see how it holds up in a non-Ring Drive application. Never stop trying things! Dumonde Tech Regular is more precise to apply and also lasts way longer. See Cooper's evangelism re. it's awesome & clean too. I am looking for good advise about where they could shine, beyond their primary advertised application, even outside the world of MTB. I just have no intent to buy any other type of grease if I can use these instead. I have a lot on hands now, let's see where I could use them. I put a freshly cleaned/lubricated chain on nearly every ride. Remember I have a connex link, so its a 30 second job. Its a bit more investment up front, but I've doubled my cassette life. I ride the same bike summer/fall/winter/spring. This saves me money as I only use one bike to ride in the mud and sandy conditions.I was also going to mention that no fork manufacturer I know of recommends lubing stanchions / most recommend against lubing stanchions between services; however, I know neither of us actually cares about that) From what I recall, you only want about 1/3 of a bearing filled with grease. I guess this is due to the grease interfering with the balls rolling around on their races, causing them to skip and slide instead of actually rolling. Thus you drastically decrease their life. Do you have a best in class lube recommendation either generic or specific to where you ride? Please post below, I'd love to hear it. The granting of a best price is not combinable with other promotions (e.g. "free articles) from Bike-Discount.

Dump spent fluid into a glass jar, dirt will settle to the bottom, pour off the clean stuff for next time. So my issue is that beyond their intended use, I know next to nothing about these greases. What are they exactly ? Can they take load ? Can they take heat ? can they go into bearings ? What are they compatible with or not, and whatnot I have to be careful not to be too cynical but in the past when I've seen something that works really well being replaced with something that arguably doesn't work as well (from a performance perspective) it's either pulling cost or pumping marketing.Whether it’s a jersey that doesn’t fit, or the colour is not quite right, sometimes you’ll need to return items to us. I don't see the point in running a new drive train in the winter and trying to keep it all looking fresh and new. A big ol oily mess actually runs better than you think and all the gunk makes it forgiving when running it into the ground. If I ran a new retrain in the winter and swapped on a chain or two, I'd have to replace it in the spring anyways. This way I just run the one that is half worn all winter and start fresh in the spring. I hear you on this antibiotic thing. I find as long as you wipe down at the end of every ride, reapply and do a final wipe it's good enough to keep chain going till end of life. I use a dry brush to get the gunk off and this works well with Dumonde Tech or Maxima dry chain lube. Full solvent tank cleaning is a waste of time. I've also come to feel this way about linkage bearings. I did at one time flush bearings and re grease. This is a pain in the arse. It's better to wipe as much away as possible and just push new grease in with a small point grease gun wiping any dirty grease the comes out. Same with new bearings, there isn't enough grease in them so just pop a seal and push some more of whatever in and away you go. I use an ultrasonic cleaner with simple green HD for all my cleaning. Honestly, I use whatever bearing grease from the industrial supply store (right now I have some purple stuff). Slathering your bearings with anything is going to be way better than the factory bike assembly. As an aside, if you have a steel frame, Boeshield T-9 is also an excellent product to coat the internal tubes with as a rust prohibitor. I do all our steel MTB frames every year. Please enclose all your details and a covering note explaining the fault and any other useful details.

If you follow the instructions (clean chain, one drop per roller, only re-lube when needed) then the Dumonde Tech regular chain lube is really good. The bottle lasts a long time and that's what we've been using in the house lately. For trail use, I like how easily it wipes up as how infrequent I need to apply it (I'm not a hoser so other experiences may vary).Edit: I'm in the east coast of the USA and REI has boeshield T9. I may give it a shot for the times I don't wax my chains to see how it compares. Its a bit pricey but I'm always down experimenting. I purposely didn’t write about chainlube. In addition to being very locale-specific people all clean their bikes differently and etc and it’s all anecdotal anyways. I use Boeshield T-9 or Dumonde Tech regular. In either case I only apply when needed, don’t hose my rigs, and it’s always surprising how long a tiny bottle lasts. Highly recommended but whatever works for you. I can only speak for local conditions but if you’re putting enough hours on a bike year round then I, as noted, find the difference is huge. But, there are some folks that NEED to lube their stanchions - and I get it, I NEED to sand the teeth on my single speed cog even when I don't - and they definitely want to use a fluoro silicone. The easiest thing to come by is Finish Line Fluoro Stanchion Lube. Anyways - everyone has their own thing but I like how much less lube I use compared to my previous chain maintenance routines.

My winter program is to wear the whole thing into the ground. An old chain, cassette and chairing can stay on all winter if you just let the oil/dirt residue build up. When I hit the shoulder season, I just leave the old drive train on and keep applying oil. Every so often I rub off some excess but in general just leave it a big oily mess. I know what you're thinking, is the product really that good? When I factor in labour (mine or paid) versus longevity and performance I can easily justify using them myself and recommending them to every discerning year-round rider and, frankly, my one complaint is that wish I could buy it in larger quantities to cut the cost down. I started using Boeshield T-9 on the recommendation of James@SuspensionWerx - years before I worked for him. I was wiping down and relubing my chain every nasty winter ride and it felt like I was going through litres of chainlube. With the T-9 I’d apply it on a clean dry chain at night (so it could dry) and then I’d get a few rides between applications. I don’t know if it saved me money but it really cut down on the volume I used and I found it a lot easier to clean my chain between applications. I ended up selling a lot of it in the shops I worked at after that. There are lots of good options (many opinions) and the only thing I've tried in the last couple years I absolutely couldn't abide was Whistler Performance Lubes crap. It's basically hot drivetrain mess in a bottle. Faulty items should be returned within a reasonable time and in a clean and dry condition. PLEASE NOTE, WE WILL NOT PROCESS DIRTY ITEMS.If you find an item at a lower price with another commercial internet retailer, you will receive it from us at the same price, provided the conditions listed in the link are met.

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