Standard fuchsia (grown on a single stem) should always be overwintered frost-free, as the main stem is prone to cold damage even if the variety is regarded as being hardy. Hardy fuchsias

Cut off a four-inch-long (or longer) tip of the plant with at least three leaf nodes. Remove lower leaves and dip the bottom in rooting hormone before planting two inches deep in a container filled with a seed-raising mix. Plant several cuttings in case some aren’t a success.Make sure that you pinch the tops of the shoots as they emerge from young trailing and bush varieties to help the plant spread out and flower. “Topping” of the sprouts ensures the best results from your fuchsias when the flowering season comes around. Pinch out some of the new growth tips to promote bushier plants and deadhead regularly throughout the season if you want to encourage flowers rather than berries. Companion Planting for Growing Fuchsia Half-hardy bush and trailing fuchsias should be lifted from the ground in autumn, before temperatures drop below 5C (41F), and overwintered in a frost-free place.

Main description of the leaves of this species include slim petioles, the join being approximately 1–4cm long. The leaves tend to be up to 10cm and ranging from 1.5–3cm wide. [4] Leaves tend to form an oblong shape with a rounded base. Leaves of Fuchsia excorticata have a smooth epidermis with the exception of the margin and veins. The leaf margin is serrated with small teeth. Leaf colour can vary the upper side generally being dark green and the underside being paler and more silver in colour. Leaves can sometimes be suffused with red or purple colouring. Fuchsia excorticata is uncommon for its characteristic of being deciduous in southern areas of New Zealand, where the majority of its competing species are large evergreen species. Therefore, in the winter months Fuchsia excorticata is conspicuous by being found with few to no leaves. Half-hardy varieties are planted out in May/June after the danger of frost has passed. Hardy species should be planted in spring or early summer. Almost 110 species of Fuchsia are recognized; the vast majority are native to South America, but a few occur north through Central America to Mexico, and also several from New Zealand to Tahiti. One species, F. magellanica, extends as far as the southern tip of South America, occurring on Tierra del Fuego in the cool temperate zone, but the majority are tropical or subtropical. A standard will take 18 months to achieve a full standard fuchsia and about six months for a quarter or mini standard. When growing in containers make sure you use a good multi-purpose compost or one with added John Innes such as Levington® Multi Purpose Compost with added John Innes Fuchsia varieties

Fuchsias are one of the mainstays of the summer garden. They produce masses of delightful pendant, bell-like flowers for months on end from early June to the first severe frosts of autumn. The spent flowers often fall off of their own accord or can form a deep-purple berry, which is edible if rather tasteless. Overwintering

Remember to place the fuchsia root ball, and adjust the height of the soil to keep it at a level where the tops of the roots are just under the surface. Hardy fuchsias require deeper planting, and gardeners need to ensure they cover up to one to two inches of soil above the roots.Propagation by cuttings is among the most popular means by which fuchsia plants are multiplied. Taking cuttings is helpful in increasing numbers of plants, as well as in overwintering your favorite cultivars. Stem sections of this plant can be rooted easily in water, or through more traditional means. You can expect cuttings placed in soil to have successfully rooted in as little as 1-2 weeks. Problems, Pests, & Diseases Instead, pinch out the side shoots along the stem, but keep the leaves on the main stem, to keep the plant healthy and growing Once the plants poke through the surface, remove the plastic bag for two to three hours a day until the plants are about three inches tall.